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I had heard a lot about it and for last three years was waiting for the right time to go there – the right time being when it rained and in ample amount. Sadly, the right time never came and this time I decided to still go to the Keoladeo National Park.
Though I do not regret going there one bit for the beauty that the park had to offer: the dust laden rustic tracks shadowed by the tall green trees, the singing of the birds, the soothing subtlety. But when the beauty fades, the reality sinks in and the picture is surely disappointing: the park is dying a slow death.
Created 250 years back under the Jat ruler Maharaja Suraj Mal and known as Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary, it was initially meant for hunting rather than granting protection to the now endangered species. The imperial hunting sport later became a favorite pastime for the British viceroys and many visited the park in the pre-independence era to rich their Indian stories to be recounted back homes. Plaques, occupying a noticeable corner of the park, proudly list various hunting expeditions and the guns and the kills. On one fateful day in 1938 alone, the plaque informs some 4273 birds were killed.
Faunae
There are a total of close to 200 species of birds assumed to be residing in the 30 square kilometers of the park (although the park literature claims close to 350 species, but many species are rarely seen these days). Many of these visit the parks during winters and definitely the best time to visit the park in between December to March. The species range from gulls, herons to Siberian cranes, which however no longer visit the park. In addition to the birds, the park shelter species of deer, sambhar, langoors, jackals and yes pythons. The best time to see pythons in again the winter time when they come out to sun-bathe in the open. The best possibility to see them is at the Python-point, marked in the park layout.
Finding the way around
The park offers excellent tracks to cycle on and get a closer look at the enveloped faunae. The cycles can be rented just outside the park at a nominal price of Rs. 25 per day. The author suggests this as the best way to see the park. Other options include hiring cycle rickshaws for Rs 50 per hour. However, these rickshaws, on account of their size may not take you to the far off corners but this option comes with the advantage of an amateur guide in the rickshaw puller. However, do not trust the knowledge of the puller too much and it is better to hire a professional guide if you require so. A map is provided at the park entrance along with the ticket (ticket price: Rs. 25). The map lists down the various trails including the cycling track. Binoculars can be rented at Rs. 25 from the entrance and is a must for watching birds.
Though I was alone, I found company in a bunch of ornithologists visiting the park. The park offers a fascinating backdrop to study and capture pictures of the rare birds to the expert ornithologists and amateurs alike. Carrying their big zooms and sophisticated cameras, these bird watchers can be seen scurrying to get the prized shot. Now days, perhaps, they outnumber the birds in the park.
Slow death
Little would have anyone thought that the park, loved by birds and tourists alike, will be bled to death one day. Democracy sadly gives little voice to inanimate and the faunae blanketing it. In 2004, under pressure from farmers, the water supply was curtailed off the park. Lack of farsightedness resulted in the park reducing to 25th of its original size. This year I was witness to human intervention and resulting disaster. The water body was now limited to a small portion in the park where a few birds flocked. I stood at one end and looked at the small pond ahead, distinctly aware of the dried up marshland behind me, ten times the size of the pond ahead. Beyond the pond till the horizon, where it used to be wetlands, now dry marshlands covered with acacia extends
Resurrection required
The man written script of Keoladeo National Park is tragic. Created from wastelands by men, the park is destined to its end through human folly only. Gone are the days when we use to get away from being accountable to our actions. World Heritage committee has already issued a warning that if the park continues to dry up at this pace, it may soon loose its heritage status. The need of the hour is that we take required actions to resurrect the park by setting up a review panel comprising of people from scientific community, nature conservationists, and local politicians and with representation from the farmers of the Bharatpur, devising strategies to undo the damage unleashed in last few years. Results should include putting our best team forward to implement actionable items to prevent this ecological disaster from happening. Else, the once wonderful Keoladeo National Park will remain fossiled forever in the books on birds of India.
Factfile
Area: 28 sq.kms
How to go there: Bharatpur is well connected by road from Agra (56 km) and Delhi (176 km). The Bharatpur railway station is 6 km from the park.
Time to visit: The park is open throughout the year. However, the best time to visit is November to March
Staying options: There are multiple staying options just outside the park and inside also suitable to all budget types. Inside the park, Hotel Bharatpur Ashok is the option.
This travelogue is contributed by Nitin Chaudhary.
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